My skirt is progressing nicely (I think). It was easy to cut out. :) I cut a straight 18 since it was closest to my measurements and I have not made a Burda pattern for myself before. I did shorten the front by 1 1/2" because I have short legs. I did not shorten the back since my back length (waist to knee) is about 3" longer than my front length (at least that is what my husband said). I was not sure how I would get the lengths to match but since I was using some "muslin" fabric if I messed up it would be fine. I stitched the pleats and back darts, and attached the pockets. Now for the tricky part. The pattern has you attach the waistband pieces to the skirt pieces before stitching the side seams. This posed a problem since my front and back pieces are 1 1/2" different. Here is my process to find the "perfect" fit:
1st attempt: I basted the side seams and the waistbands together. Then I basted on the waistband. When I got to the side where there was an 1 1/2" difference I just gradually basted the waistband on so that it bridged the gap. This made a slightly curved seam. When I tried it on there was a few strange wrinkles. This would work if pressed really well but I wasn't quite satisfied. I wish I had a picture but I moved on to attempt #2 without thinking about pictures.
2nd attempt: I removed the back waistband. I wanted to see what the back was like without the band. Would I need more/less dart? How does the shaping look without the band? Well, to my surprise it fit quite well. I now have some choices to make. Do I eliminate the back waistband and just make a facing (the front plus waistband and back side seams are now the same length)? Do I try to attach the back waistband but then this will eliminate the darts? What to do? What to do?
3rd attempt: Still trying to get a better fit. This time I basted the side seams so that they matched at the top. The back fit even better but my seams went forward and I still had a bit of extra room. Six inches below the top I started curving inward from a 5/8" seam allowance to about 1 1/4" seam allowance. This doesn't fully correct the side seam leaning toward the front but the fit is better. So far this is my best fit (aside from the back hem being quite a bit longer than the front). I think that I am going to go with this and see what happens. I might be doing a lot of ripping. I think I will baste it ALL together (zipper and everything). I hate wasting the time basting but it will be so much easier to rip out this way if it doesn't work quite right.
All this for a skirt and I don't even where skirts very often. Well, when this is finished I will make myself wear it!
It's times like these that I so prefer sewing clothes for my daughter. I just don't have these troubles making stuff for her. I guess I am learning. Right?!
ARRRRGH! I have to go pick up my kids now and have a busy evening. I probably won't get a chance to get back to this until tomorrow. I hope I remember what I am doing. :)
Thanks for stopping by! Hopefully I will solve some of these problems for next time. Have a great day!
Until next time...
Geek at Heart
2 hours ago